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Wai Khru Tattoo Festival

Wat Bang Phra, about 50 kilometres outside Bangkok, is the location for an annual event quite unlike any other that I’ve witnessed. Each spring, devotees gather to pay respects to their religious teachers in a ceremony known as Wai Khru (Honour the teacher). Spectators at Thai Boxing (Muay Thai) matches will have seen fighters pay respects in a similar fashion before each bout and Thai school students also perform similar rituals at the start of each school term.

Traditionally, Thai tattoos are believed to be more than just a decorative art. Recipients believe that each tattoo carries protective properties and it is in search of these that people gather at the temple every spring. The rituals are a complex mix of Buddhist, Hindu, Brahman and Animist beliefs. Devotees come to pay their respects to their religious teachers and to receive tattoos that are created at the hands of these spiritual leaders. It is not only the application of the tattoo that has significance, it is the magical activation of the designs that believers seek. Once applied, the tattoo is believed to offer protection and in a country with an unpredictable political future, such protection is increasingly in demand.

Inside the temple complex are various rooms where people queue quietly to receive their artful talismans. Outside, a crowd gathers to listen to the invocations of the temple abbot. The spirits contained in the tattoo designs are awakened and prompt the human host to enter into a trance-like state. Often the believer will begin to shake and growl, assuming the characteristics of their animal spirit. Eventually they will be drawn towards the front of the crowd, perhaps slithering along the ground like a snake or an eel or sprinting through the crowd like a tiger. Some become bird-like, others clench their fists or hold out their hands like claws.

At the front of the crowd, volunteers wait to restrain and subdue the devotees, vigorously rubbing their ears to bring them back to their senses. Despite the apparent chaos and what seems like a potential for injury, the events are in fact well-controlled and there is a sense of great respect throughout the gathering.

Tattoos are created by hand with a long needle

These Yantra tattoos are believed to have strong magical properties

Devotees believe that their tattoos have the power to deflect attacks from bullets and knives

Each tattoo is created from thousands of strikes into the skin using a special ink, reportedly containing snake venom

Outside, crowds sit in the full heat of a Thai morning, focussing energy into the spirits depicted in their magical tattoos

Entering a trance-like state, animal spirits take over their hosts’ bodies prompting them to take on their animal characteristics

Some become spirit embodiments of Hanuman, the Monkey God, others become tigers or lions

Those in a trance begin to growl and yell, lurching towards the stage at the front in response to their master’s summons

As the intensity increases, people begin to sprint through the crowd, paying little attention to those who are in their way

The combination of animalistic shrieks and wild-eyed expressions makes for an intimidating spectacle

As the festival reaches a climax, participants rush towards the stage together and are caught and restrained by waiting volunteers

Despite looking and sounding like an all-out battle, there is remarkable control and the devotees are quickly subdued

Volunteers pinch the ears of those in a trance in order to bring them back to their senses

As the festival concludes, the abbot sprays blessed water onto the crushing crowds

Arms reach out as those in the crowd try to catch blessed objects thrown by the abbot

You can find more images from this year’s Wai Khru Tattoo Festival in my portfolio.

36 Responses to “Wai Khru Tattoo Festival”

  1. Gavin.

    You are my hero of the day. I have been following your site and your work is utterly amazing. I am, too, an amateur photographer, with urges to follow your steps. What you do in all areas are exactly what I had in my mind to pursue for years but that never happened, YET. I want to learn the ropes, get my hands on everything that I need to know about being a photojournalism and/or travel photographer.

    I am certain that you get the same comments from many other followers but there’s a catch. I am deaf, using sign language fully and daily. It is my hope to capture stories as well as deaf-related stories around the world from my own eyes, not my ears.

    I’d kill for an opportunity to be your shadow for a short period of time. Then, I can get the ball rolling and make a difference in any communities around the world like you do.

    Keep up your good work.

    Best,

    Darren Frazier
    Helsinki, Finland (U.S. citizen on work visa)
    E-mail: darfrazier@mac.com
    Website: http://www.darrenfrazierphotography.com (outdated since 2003!)

    P.S. Is it a coincidence or fate that I chose Modularity from Graphpaperpress.com for my upcoming new website before I saw your website?! Ha! :-)

  2. heber vega says:

    Amazing captures…
    These photos are really intensives, I also like the way that you work on them.
    It would be great if you can share a little bit more on that…

    Thanks.

  3. Simply outstanding captures

  4. Matt Brandon says:

    WOW!…WOW! I think I will now just hang up my cameras. WOW! These are amazing. Especially the first 6 images, they are award winning. I really don’t know what to say. Except, why didn’t I come a week later?!

  5. These are some of the best photographs I’ve seen you publish. They are simply incredible.

  6. Erin Wilson says:

    You’re consistently hitting it out of the park, Gavin. ‘Wow’ is right!
    This appears to me a men-only festival, or do I see a few women in the crowd?

  7. Mark Forman says:

    I see WOW was already used. I’ll let you know how I feel after the umpteenth viewing because these images merit repeat viewing and contemplation. Excellent work.

  8. Ben says:

    Wow, fantastic images. i really like that they are all in B/W, goes really well with the tattoos.

  9. Matt Connors says:

    Impressive and incredible. Thank you for sharing.

  10. Adding my Wow! Amazing photos … makes me feel like I was there.

  11. Pretty pictures are one thing; these are telling pictures. Any one of these photos has a story behind it. Each glimpses into the unknown, rather than just singing the same song over and over again. Superb. Thank you.

  12. Mark says:

    Fantastically captivating and incredible. I could look at these for hours. Would love to see the full clip sheet!

  13. Simply incredible…some of the best images I’ve seen this year. The B&W treatment is just amazing.

  14. Charley says:

    This is beyond anything…………

  15. All I can say is CAPTIVATING!

  16. Great work man. would love to come experience that at some point!

  17. WOWWWW WOWWWWW WoWWWW!!These photos are sooo soooooo great!!! You make me wanna go experience that too :) may be next year!

  18. Kaylea says:

    Hi Gavin, love these photos. Dont see much B&W from you but these are amazing. I will have to get myself there next year!
    Kaylea

  19. Ursula says:

    Stunning, asa always!

  20. DaveT says:

    Gavin,

    Great set of images – I particularly like the way you use lenses at their widest settings, it’s very effective.

    How are you creating the B&W? Is it lightroom or perhaps a plug in?

  21. Gavin says:

    Thanks for all the encouraging comments.

    With regard to the B&W post-production, I processed these in Lightroom. I have the preset available, it sets the exposure, tone curve, split-tone levels, contrast etc. and if there’s sufficient interest then I’ll make it available as a download.

  22. P says:

    Beautiful!

    P.S. Include me as “sufficiently interested” in our LR preset. Thanks!

  23. Artem says:

    Amazing moments! Very strong pictures.
    And excellent post-prod. Gavin, what colors did you use for split toning?

  24. Nicole says:

    Oh my. Gavin, these are stunning. Powerfully captured, beautifully processed, and informatively explained. Wonderful post!

  25. Gavin, you’re on fire this week! This is some really excellent work. I hope that more than just the lucky of us visiting your blog will get to see these.

  26. Matt Welsh says:

    That is absolutely incredible… you’re the man! Add me to the list of people who would be interested in the preset!

  27. Wow, what a lucky girl I am that you are following little ‘ole me on Twitter. I used to publish magazines and am in awe of your work. Of course I would LOVE to see more, so pick me to win the book!

  28. peter berg says:

    gavin,

    deservedly lots of comments on this post. truly amazing shots.
    well done.
    peter berg

  29. aileen says:

    gorgeous shots. love the b&w. i too would be interested in the LR preset. great work. aileen

  30. Wow – this is incredible. I’d never heard of this. Thanks for taking us on a closer look at this journey – wow.

  31. Anthony Pond says:

    These images are AMAZING. I love the B&W capture of this fascinating ritual. Something I definitely want to see and shoot. Thanks for sharing. Also, I am interested in your LR preset. Tony