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Chasing my mojo in Hanoi


I’ve been staying in Hanoi’s Old Quarter this week, preparing for a series of photo workshops and concentrating on getting my mojo working. That’s the thing about mojo, you can’t take it for granted, it needs to be nurtured. From tomorrow, I’ll be helping other photographers locate and cultivate their own mojo, which seems like a rather pleasant way to spend one’s days.

In my spare time, of which there seems to be very little this week, I’ll be continuing my ongoing survey of Hanoi’s many excellent cafes and restaurants. This is a survey that I began several years ago and which I continue with a self-imposed schedule that is both rigid and punishing. Yes, it’s tough at the top.

I’ll also be meeting up with some friends and there’s talk of being dragged, much against my will, to a social evening sponsored by Martini. So, once again, I’ll be doing my utmost to dispel the myth that Travel Photographers mostly sit around sipping cocktails in exotic locations.

Yellow walls are, for some reason, like nectar to my bee-like brain. Red walls are good too, of course, and I’ve even been tempted by blue walls on occasion, but there’s something about a yellow wall that I find especially appealing. Better still if it’s as weather-beaten as this one in a narrow alley in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. When I spied it through Hanoi’s frenzied traffic from the other side of the road I was in such a hurry to reach it that I was very nearly mown-down by 800 oncoming motorbikes. Remember, always look both ways – especially in these countries where people insist upon driving on the wrong side of the road.

A little insight for you now: I wanted to photograph these flowers (below), perched on a bicycle. Despite the fact that the bike was in the street and so you might think was fair game for passing photographers, I politely asked permission from the bicycle’s owner, who was seated nearby enjoying a bowl of noodles at a street-side restaurant. It’s no surprise that the local people of Hanoi are sometimes jaded by tourists but, even so, I was a little surprised that without even looking up, she replied assertively “One dollar”. Her friends nodded in agreement and also told me “One dollar”, just to clarify the price. What to do? Option One might have been to have shrugged and walked on. Option Two might have been to have also shrugged, ignored them and taken the photo anyway. What would you have done? There was a time when I’d have chosen Option One (Option Three, to have paid the lady one dollar, isn’t a viable option in my book). However, these days I’m a little more feisty so I made up my very own Option Four. I shrugged, asked if I could take a seat beside where this group were eating, was invited to do so, sat down and mimed my desire to also have a bowl of noodles. If you’re not sure what the internationally recognised mime is for “Please may I have a bowl of noodles?” then check it on Wikipedia and then practice it in the mirror so that you are prepared should you find yourself in similar shoes. By the time we’d all eaten our noodles and finished our tea, we were firm friends. Each of the ladies had posed for a portrait and several had asked me if I was available for adoption. At least, I think that’s what they said, my Vietnamese is a little rusty.

The moral? Oh, I don’t know, you can make up your own moral today. I guess it would be something along the lines of knowing that just because millions of other tourists have passed along the same path before you, doesn’t mean that you have to behave in the same way as the majority of them. Don’t let yourself be pigeon-holed, don’t be afraid of getting involved and, if all else fails, buy a bowl of noodles.

Caged birds are popular in Hanoi and you’ll often hear a little chirruping as you walk along the street from a birdcage dangling above your head. Well, I think it’s the birds that make the sound in fact, not the birdcages, but you get the gist. Having a bird in a cage is considered to be good luck. For the owner, not for the bird, obviously. I thought at first that the owner of the shop pictured above had gone a little overboard in his pursuit of good fortune – until I realised that it was, in fact, a bird shop.

Also popular is the habit of taking a break for a sweet coffee and a quick hit of tobacco on a bamboo bong. I thought at first there was something more potent in this man’s pipe but it’s just tobacco. I’ve read that some people prefer smoking like this to smoking cigarettes because there are no chemicals in the tobacco used. Either way, it’s an unusual sight. The men in this street cafe were also a little suspicious of me to begin with but it’s amazing what a polite request can achieve. Rather than standing and staring or sheepishly walking by, I just sat down and ordered a coffee. It was a cafe after all. As soon as you’ve crossed that barrier and taken away all notions of being “different”, it’s surprising how swiftly our perceived barriers begin to dissolve.

Finally, a red wall. Freshly painted but with a rustic wooden door and wires poking through the gaps. I began photographing the door and thought to myself how utterly splendid it would be if the owner appeared at that moment to walk through it, preferably a lady wearing one of those iconic “Non” hats. Not two seconds later, this lady appeared and proceeded to unlock the door. So, it seems that my mojo is working perfectly well, after all.

24 Responses to “Chasing my mojo in Hanoi”

  1. [...] See beautiful photos here [...]

  2. Love the mojo hand coming through the other door in the red wall…

  3. Tom England says:

    Great post. I love the composition of the first photo of the bicycle. Great use of empty space.

  4. ian furniss says:

    Wonderful images there Gavin ..the mojo’s back already if they’re anything to go by!

  5. Not only are the images lovely, but your narrative greatly teaches a wannabe like me!

  6. I really like the first image. The texture in the wall is great.

  7. The mojo’s well and truly working for you. Hanoi is a great place for photography and you’ve captured the spirit of the old quarter.

  8. sabrina says:

    Beautiful images as always Gavin–the bird in the cage is my favourite. I loved the post too!

  9. Eric says:

    Good stuff – I went for an early morning stroll in Singapore, to try catch the low light that usually stream through the trees at about 8am. My mojo was certainly not on; I came away with nothing. Well, there is always “another tomorrow morning”.

    Keep posting, it’s inspiring.

  10. Ian Walker says:

    Great shots, Gavin. Just got back from Hong Kong myself and had a bit of Mojo! Some pics on the blog of Nan Lian Gardens and Chi Lin Nunnery. Good advice not to fall into the tourist trap, I need to do a bit more the “coffee & noodles” with the locals! All the best,
    Ian

  11. I really enjoyed the last two images especially the one with the fingers through the opening. Glad your mojo was working for these series of images.

  12. liisa hannus says:

    So many times tourists feel the need to be in a hurry, to quickly get from one place to another in order to complete a checklist of their travels. Your post shows the many benefits of slowing down, taking the time to just sit and be in a place. Not only do you get the opportunity to make some great images, but you get closer to feeling what the place is all about.

  13. Joel says:

    Great Post Gavin. Just the right amount. Info,Photo’s and humor.
    I love the last photo you posted. Takes the door to another place as a photograph.
    Cheers

  14. Erin Wilson says:

    Some wonderful images! And a wonderful lesson too… thanks for sharing what you learned over noodles :)

  15. peter berg says:

    yep – agree with Erin, really enjoyed your post – great start to my weekend. thanks for sharing.

  16. Masher says:

    Ahh, the missing ingredient! I shall be packing a Pot Noodle on all future photographic excursions.

    Nicely written post, Gavin. And the flowers on the bike picture (top) was easily worth the price of a bowl of noodles.

  17. Kaylea says:

    Hi Gavin,
    This was a laugh out loud post for me! Very funny! Especially the ladies wanting to adopt you! You are right that we shouldnt act like tourists who just want the photo and go. Im sometimes too shy though to ask though.

  18. Dave T says:

    Great set of images. I love the way you see and use colour and also the way you use differential focusing to add depth to your images.

    Thanks too for the tips.

    Dave

  19. Adam says:

    I really like the shot of the bird in the cage. Wonderful comp. Makes me wonder what’s out of the frame…

  20. Really enjoyed the post Gavin and the great set of images. Thanks for sharing! Wenata

  21. Hey dude , Why dont u put facebook badge on your site? Because I want to add your facebook. thx Regards Admin of vacationtravelmagazine.com

  22. Gavin says:

    Hey dude, Facebook and other social media links can be found at the foot of the page :)

  23. Faz says:

    Thanks for this post Gavin –

    reading this makes me realise that I gave up on my mojo or muse or daemon before it gave up on me. I’m picking up my camera and going for a walk. Thank you again.

    Best,
    Faz